Friday, May 21, 2010

Quick Update Updated...with pictures!

My travels in Turkey were a highlight of the trip so far. After Istanbul, I went to Goreme with Ameliano, an Argentian doctor who had been staying at the same hostel I had been in. We arrived, early in the moring, after a long overnight bus journey and found a cave hostel to stay in. The region of Cappadocia is characterized by their lunar-like landscapes of rock caves. Goreme is a town in a valley that is filled with these caves. People have built their homes (and hostels) into these caves. It was incredible to see the landscape change as we got closer and closer to Cappadocia. Our first day in the town, we basically walked around....and walked around some more. The town itself is really quite small, but there is an open air museum with really old cave churches. Inside of the churches were paintings of Biblical stories that dated back to the 9th century, but Christian communities have been thriving in the region since 3rd century. It was really nice to have the company of Ameliano. The language barrier was a bit of an issue at first but we could usually get the jist of what each other was saying. The hostel that we were staying at was not the livliest of places and so we decided to go out in the evening for some Nargile (waterpipe) and a beer. We found a little bar with a deck, cushions on the floor, and low tables that sat at. It was a really relaxing night out!





The next day we planned on catching the night bus (I was going to Olympos and he was going to Side) but it didn´t leave until 10:00 at night. So we faced a day of doing nothing because we had already walked all around the town and the outskirts of town the day before. I was kind of dreading it but to my surprise, it was a great day. We had a leisurely breakfast of fresh fruit from the market and picked up kebaps for lunch and then trekked up to the top of the valley. We found a large tree that provided sufficient shade and had picnic lunch. Knowing we had nothing of importance to do that day, we decided a long afternoon nap would be in order. So we literally just relaxed all day long. We each brought along iPods that we listened to...sometimes we talked, but mostly we just slept. After a good 6 hrs, we headed back down to the town, got more food, and then talked to the guy at the bus station until our bus rolled in.



I arrived in Olympos the next morning and got to my treehouse hostel. The town is set in the valley of mountains, right next to the Mediterranean Sea. It is also the site of a Lycian city dating back to 1000 BC so there are ruins everywhere. After getting situated in my room, I immediately headed for the beach. It was my first real time in the sun in a long time and it was lovely!!! I headed back in to the hostel in the early afternoon to nap and that evening met the people I would end up hanging out with during my time in Olympos. There were two very charismatic Aussie guys and two friends from England. In the dorm next to us were a group of guys from England. So that was pretty much the crew for the next few days.

During the days, we would head to the beach and swim, do some cliff jumping, and explore the ruins. There was usually a break for ice cream (or my favorite, fresh orange/pomegranate juice) mid-afternoon. In the evenings, we would hang out either in the dorm or go to different bars down the street.

The Beach:



Our Cliff-Jumping Cliffs:



Some Ruins:



On my last night in Olympos, Jack (one of the English guys) and I decided to walk to Chimera Flames. We could have paid 20 Lira and been driven there, but decided we were to cheap. So we set out on the journey which ended up taking about 6 hrs (round trip). The flames themselves have apparently been burning for millenea. They are the source of greek lenend and are really surprising to see. When we finally reached them, we thought there were just a bunch of campfires burning, but then realized there was no wood to fuel the fire. Instead, they remain lit from natural gas escaping from the earth.



The long, hot, and tiring trip was worth it, we decided, and we arrived back to the hostel in time to go out dancing to horrible techno music at the Bull Bar.



The next day I packed up and got ready for a few long days of travel ahead of me. I took a bus through Antalya back to Istanbul and then another bus to Sofia, Bulgaria. From there, I caught a night train to Budapest, Hungary that went through Serbia. The days of travel turned out to go by pretty quickly and my investment in a sleeper compartment for the night train was well worth it. During my first day in Budapest, I wandered around for a few hours and then went on a free walking tour of the city. Back at the hostel, we got FREE Hungarian goulash soup and FREE Hungarian red wine. People were going out to the clubs but I decided to opt out, given my very early arrival that morning (5:00 am). The next day was my day of relaxation at the Thermal Baths. The complex had at least 10 pools filled with natural thermal spring water of different temperatures. There were also steam rooms, scented steam rooms, and saunas. So for a few hours I just wandered in and out of these pools and treated myself to a massage from a very demanding/abrupt Hungarian woman. That night I went out with people in the hostel to a Reggae club, and then onto a couple different bars. As we were heading back to the hostel, the first light of the sunrise was in the sky and I knew that my bed had my name on it.

The Danube River that separates Buda and Pest:



I left Hungary via a train to Zagreb, Croatia the next morning with an American guy who was also heading in the same direction. We ended up staying at a hostel that looked great on the website but turned out to be filled with kids the day we were there. So it was kind of wierd to be woken up by 12 year old boys getting dressed and packing up at 6:00 in the morning. We caught the earliest bus out of Zagreb to Plitice Lakes National Park. It was stunning. There are about 5 lakes, all with different elevations so one lake flows to the next making about a million waterfalls. Footpaths are everywhere and you literally walk over top of rushing water. Included in the price of admission to the park is being able to take the boats across the lakes and the busses around the park. The water is unbelieveably clear. In the middle of the lakes you can look down and see the bottom completely clearly. After a few hours exploring the park, we needed to head back to the bus stop to go onwards.





I had plans of going to Zadar but the bus just never came. As I was waiting, a Canadian girl from PEI named Kayla showed up. We got to talking and had strikingly similar lives. Seriously. She was my doppleganger. So she was heading to Split, and because I had nothing booked in Zadar I decided to join up with her. That is the greatest thing about travelling by yourself and travelling without a plan: there is room for spontenaity. While in Split, we stopped by the market and picked up everything we would need for a picnic on the beach: bread, tomatoes, cheese, strawberries, oranges, and wine. Then we boarded a ferry over to the Island of Brac and caught a bus to the other side of the island to a town called Bol. We enjoyed our little picnic and although it was interupted once because of a light shower it was still great to be at the beach.

The town of Supertar on the island of Brač:



Back at the bus stop we met up with 4 other young travellers who were also staying in Split. That evening we all went out to dinner together where I had the most amazing seafood risotto. The others were going out to party that night but Kayla and I got ice cream for dessert, happened upon a dance competition in the old city walls that we watched for a little bit, and then headed back to the hostel.

The sunset on the way to dinner:



Kayla left early that morning to go to Bosnia and I headed up to Zadar. It seemed like the first time in a while that I had been alone, and I actually relished in the opportunity to be by myself. I stayed at a hostel outside of the city centre in a tourist resort-y place which was not my favorite. But I got caught up on some reading and journalling and went to bed early.

I left the hostel the next morning to catch a bus up to Pula in the Istria region of Croatia. There wasn´t a bus leaving until noon so I wandered around the old city of Zadar for a couple hours. I sat and listened to the Sea Organ for a while, which somehow makes music from the waves and tubes that are located underneath marble steps. My bus ride up to Pula was uneventful but long. Once again, I had nothing booked but met a woman at the bus station who was staying at a hostel I had read about previously that sounded nice. So I tagged along with her and luckilly, there was a bed available when I showed up. This place is like a little home. The woman is like a Grandma who made crepes for us when we arrived and apparently free homemade soup is a regular occurance too. I think it is a little more costly than other hostels, but I am willing to pay the price. This woman is a godsend.

It is 2 weeks from yesterday that I will be home. I can´t believe it...time flies.

I hope you are all well!

Love,

Kate

Sunday, May 9, 2010

From cross country skiing to rooftop shisha...

This is going to be very newsy. Because a lot of things have been seen and done since I've last wrote a post. So I will guess I will just start in:

Mom and I stayed in Dublin for 3 nights before heading to Norway. While still in Ireland we had one last dinner at Deryk and Isobel's (so Mom could meet them, and I could say goodbye), went on a day tour to the Cliffs of Moher and many other things along the way, and went on another, more relaxing, day tour to Glendaloch and Kilkenny.



The next morning we headed to the airport to fly to Oslo. The city itself was surprisingly beautiful and but Mom and I both wanted to get out to the country because really, that's why we came. We took the train to Voss which is an incredibly gorgeous place: set on a lake, surrounded by mountains. Every morning we woke up to a glass-like lake that reflected the scenery around us...not a bad way to start a day. Mom and I fell in love with the town and ended up staying there for the rest of our nights in Norway except one. We spent one day exploring the area around Voss and hiked into a gorge and then up (and I mean up) a never ending trail that seemed to go nowhere. It was nice to be out in nature...real nature not commercialized or touristy nature.





The next day we did 'Norway in a Nutshell' which is an organized tour you buy a ticket for. But it's self led, so there's no 'following the red umbrella' business that some tours seem to be. We took the train up to Myrdal (900 meters above sea level) and then the Flamsbana railway down to the town of Flam which is at sea level. From Flam we took the a fjord boat tour through two parts of the Sognefjord to Gudvangen and then a bus back to Voss. Along the way there was part of the road, built by hand about a hundred years ago that had 16 hairpin turns in it. The bus driver explained that he had use engine retarder breaks and use 1st gear (speed limit was 15 km/h) because if not, the breaks would most likely go.





The next day we took the train to Bergen. It was a really relaxing day of meandering around and exploring the city. We walked amongst the UNESCO World Heritage section of Bergen called Bryggen enjoyed our Norwegian-smoked-salmon-from-the-fish-market lunch at a sunny picnic table. At the fish market we also tried a small bit of smoked whale. I am pacifying my nagging conscience by telling myself that it was only a small bit (p.s. if you're curious, it had the texture of roast beef, while tasting like salmon-y-chicken-y liver). After a leisurely lunch we took the Funicular up to see a view of Bergen and the sea and then hiked back down.



Our last full day in the Voss area was my favorite of the whole trip. We took a train to Finse which is 1222 m above sea level, and only accessible by train. It is located at the top of the mountains and was incredibly beautiful. We rented cross country skis and began the arduous journey to a cabin about 5 km away. This does not sound like much, I know, and we didn't think it would be either, but it was uphill almost all the way and the skis we had were not waxed. So we used skins (carpet/felt strips you stick on to the bottom of your skis for uphills) the whole time which gave us traction, but no sliding. But we made it up there (after peeling off all of our layers)and sat outside to enjoy another picnic lunch which included smoked salmon. The journey back was much more fun since it was downhill. There were a couple minor crashes but mostly just a lot of laughter. It was just a really great day...really fun. And full of memories.



We said goodbye to our home in Voss regretfully and took a bus to Lillehammer, home of the 1994 Winter Olympic Games. Our hostel was exceptionally posh (and expensive) with fresh cut flowers, lit candles, etc. On our search for a grocery store we happened upon a fashion show which we found the inspiration for Mom's mother of the bride dress (see picture below, it's the pink one on the left, pink rain boots included...Anne, you're ok with that right??) The next morning, after exploring the city a bit more and heading up to Olympic Park, we took the train to the Airport. We said our goodbyes and Mom headed off to Amsterdam and I waited to fly to Rygge, Latvia until 9:00 that night. I spent the night at the airport and then flew the Istanbul the next morning.



As cities go, Istanbul is pretty beautiful. Last night was really relaxed and I just had supper (FREE) and smoked shisha (cappucino flavoured and more importantly, FREE)on the roof with other people from the hostel. I spent time with a Calgarian man today and we went to the Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque and took a boat trip down the Bospherous to a fishing village on the Asian side of Istanbul. It was nice to have the company, I'm kind of surprised he offered to hang out with me but he is also traveling alone until he and his wife are to meet up in Iran to travel together. So the company was welcome.

So things are going well. I like Turkey a lot so far. I hope everyone is well!

Love,

Kate